Travel letter from Lofoten

Most important: The black gold as it was called in the old world, remains under the seabed. – The politicians took to reason for once, says one of the owners of Johs. Giæver Hostel in Henningsvær, Lofoten.

We wanted to show our kids one of the finest places Norway has to offer. Tourists have replaced the fishermen that counted more than 30.000 in late 18th century. – What about the famous Lofoten fishery?, I ask the woman. She is busy preparing for a new round of guests from Germany, China and the UK eager to experience Lofoten.

– It is all well, and this year it looks very good. We haven’t had any below zero temperatures in springtime which is good for the dried fish.

Fishing in Lofoten is less profitable than farmed salmon

In 1896 the Lofoten fishery attracted 30,000 fishermen. After the second world war this figure decreased to between 15,000 and 20,000. From the 1990’s some 2,000-4,000 have found their way out to this extremely rich water as cod migrates from the Barents sea to spawn. The catch has been as much as 146,000 tonnes and down to 18,450. Over fishing has challenged the stock, but has recovered. In 2017 the catch was 62,100 tonnes.

Farmed fish is more profitable then the wild cod. In 2018 Norway exported 1.1 million tonnes of farmed salmon worth 7.8 billion USD. In comparison 197,000 tonns of cod was worth 1 billion.

The wreckers are coming

Johs. Giæver Hostel used to be a fish reception facility. I am very surprised the kids don’t complain or even mention the unmistakable smell of fish the building is carrying. – We renovated the place in the 1990’s. My son is managing during summer. He always looks forward to September 1. when he goes out to sea fishing, the owner reveals.

– And soon the wreckers are coming. – What’s that? I ask. – The controllers. They check every single dry fish and place them in six different categories before they are exported. – Dried fish is Norway’s oldest export article. The Vikings brought it and in exchange they they got jewellery, good beverage and other goods they didn’t have.

Surfing Lofoten

On Magic Sea Weed, a surfer guide web page, Unstad is described as follows: “Beachbreak that suffers a bit of swell shadow compared to the two pointbreaks that flank it. Breaks over sand and some scattered boulders but is fine for beginners and the local surf school. All facilities including surf camp, surf shop/school and log cabin campsite. Breathtaking alpine scenery.”

I agree with all of it. We drive out from Henningsvær as we are listening to the title track of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. Our oldest daughter has had Beatlemania since February. – Listen to the transition to the next song, my wife and I say. It’s beautiful.

We are approaching Unstad. Massive, steep mountains that run straight to the ocean glittering in the sunlight. Nature that only the best of poets can describe with words. Loads of camper vans on the road. The drivers have their eyes more off road than on the driving. I am focused as if I was on the autobahn in Germany.

Cold? Not at all

Forecast says one meter waves and offshore winds. The first thing we see as we park the car outside Unstad Arctic Surf is a sign saying “the worlds best cinnamon buns”. We go inside. – Sure, you can hire surfboards. Do you need an instructor? Marion behind the desk asks.

Marion is second generation Unstad-surfer and is as nice and smiling as you can get. Her dad ripped the first waves here in 1963 on a surfboard made of the foam from their old refrigerator. The board is prominently put in the cafe in memory of the times when salespeople in sports shops laughed at you if you asked for a surfboard.

The cinnamon buns? We had one each. Gigantic, as if we were in the US. But fantastic. – The recipe is from my mother, Marion proudly explains. She clearly agrees that they taste really good.

– We will have high tide in a couple hours more, but around five or six, when the tide goes down, the waves will be here, one of the instructors predicts. When we get back in the afternoon, the kids get their 6 mm wet suit, glows, shoes and cap. They are excited and a bit uncertain as they follow the instructor.

The conditions couldn’t have been better: Clean, slow waves, perfect size, offshore wind and sun that warms. A classic, beautiful day. On a day like this it’s worth the money. The gear rent is not cheap.

Sculls for Nigeria

The day after, we hike in Kvavika. Together with Haukland beach, this is on of Lofoten’s, and Norway’s most beautiful beaches as the lie glued by the foot of the steep mountains.

Heading towards Moskenes we pass Sakrisøy and an old truck full of cod heads. – Hey, let’s look at this, I exclaim.

Hundreds of huge, gaping dried cod heads are neatly arranged on the back of the truck.

Export of dried cod heads to Nigeria has become a hit for Saga Fish in Svolvær, I learn. The company buys the heads from fishermen, dry them and sell it. In 2015 they exported around 4,000 tonnes. Why this hunger for dried fish in Nigeria? It was part of the Norwegian humanitarian aid during the Biafran civil war for more than 50 ago.

Kelp and tare

Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit Lofoten Seaweed. The company was founded in 2016 and is already making money. There are good reasons to eat kelp and tare. It contains far more carbohydrates, proteins and take up much more CO2 than soybean oil, wheat and beans. Kelp and tare also contains Omega 3. But, we need more research since we know too little about the content level of cadmium, inorganic arsenic and iodine.

The verdict: Go to Lofoten. Great place!

Cover photo: Haukland beach, Lofoten